DESTINATION SINGAPORE

Lying almost on the equator, Singapore is a thriving city-state that has overcome its dearth of natural resources to become one of the juggernaut economies of Asia. A city of concrete, glass and steel, renowned for its hi-tech wizardry, Singapore also offers a taste of the great Asian cultures in a small easy-to-manage package. In the crowded streets of Chinatown, fortune tellers, calligraphers and temple worshippers are still a part of everyday life. In Little India, you can buy the best sari material, freshly ground spices or a picture of your favourite Hindu god. In the small shops of Arab St, the cry of the imam can be heard from the nearby Sultan Mosque.

Singapore may no longer be a rough-and-ready port of rickshaws, opium dens, pearl luggers and pirates, but you can still recapture the colonial era with a gin sling under the languorous ceiling fans at Raffles Hotel, dine out at the renovated quays along the Singapore River where merchant ships once berthed, and visit the numerous Victorian relics that have survived the city's relentless development. It is this carefully stage-managed combination of Western modernity and a treasured Eastern and colonial past, that makes Singapore such an accessible slice of Asia.

Budget accommodation is in 'crash pads' (dormitories) or Chinese hotels; the former are concentrated around Bencoolen St, the latter in Chinatown and on Jalan Besar and Beach Rd. There are few moderately priced hotels, but plenty of international-standard hotels - and there's always Raffles for those with bottomless wallets. For tasty budget Indian and Chinese food, try one of the hundreds of hawker centres (conglomerations of permanent food stalls) scattered throughout Singapore. Orchard Rd, the colonial district, Chinatown and Little India are the best areas for shopping.

Map of Singapore (7K)

Slide Show

Facts at a Glance
Environment
History
Economy
Culture
Events
Facts for the Traveller
Money & Costs
When to Go

Attractions
Off the Beaten Track
Activities
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
Travellers' Reports on Singapore
On-line Info

Facts at a Glance

Full country name: Republic of Singapore
Area: 646 sq km (252 sq mi)
Population: 3.1 million (growth rate 1.3%)
People: 78% Chinese, 14% Malay, 7% Indian
Language: Mandarin, Malay, Tamil and English
Religion: 31% Taoist, 28% Buddhist, 18% Muslim, 10% Christian, 4% Hindu
Government: Parliamentary democracy
President: Mr Ong Teng Cheong
Prime Minister: Mr Goh Chok Tong

Environment

Singapore consists of the main, low-lying Singapore Island and 58 smaller islands within its territorial waters. Urban areas comprise almost 50% of the land area, while parkland, reservoirs, plantations and open military areas occupy 40%. Singapore Island measures approximately 42km (26mi) east to west and 23km (14mi) north to south at its widest points. While there are built-up, high-density areas all around the island, the main city area is in the south, built on the shores of the Singapore River. The Central Business District (CBD) is at the southern shore of the river's mouth. Chinatown adjoins the CBD to the south-west. To the north of the Singapore River is the colonial district, which has many reminders of British rule. Further north again is Little India and Arab St. Orchard Rd runs north-west from the colonial district.

Central Singapore (19K)

To the west of the island is Jurong, an industrial area with a sprinkling of tourist attractions. The east coast has some of the older residential areas, a major beach park and the international airport. The north-east is the location of huge housing developments and the central north of the island has most of Singapore's undeveloped land and remaining forest. A 1km (.6mi) long causeway connects Singapore with Johor Bahru in Malaysia; a second causeway is planned to relieve congestion. Under current plans, land reclamation and housing developments should dramatically alter Singapore's geography.

Hot and humid year-round, Singapore's temperature almost never drops below 20°C (68°F), even at night, and usually climbs to 30°C (86°F) during the day. Humidity is high, hovering around the 75% mark. Singapore is wettest from November to January and at its driest from May to July - the difference between the two, however, is slight. And due to Singapore's proximity to the equator, it receives a steady diet of sunshine all year.

History

According to Malay legend, a Sumatran prince encountered a lion - considered a good omen - on Temasek, prompting him to found Singapura, or Lion City. It mattered little that lions had never inhabited Singapore (more likely the prince had seen a tiger); what did matter was the establishment of the region as a minor trading post for the powerful Sumatran Srivijaya empire and as a subsequent vassal state of the Javanese Majapahit empire in the mid-13th century.

Singapore might have remained a quiet backwater if not for Sir Stamford Raffles' intervention in 1819. The British had first established a presence in the Straits of Malacca (now called Melaka) in the 18th century when the East India Company set out to secure and protect its line of trade from China to the colonies in India. Fearing another resurgence of Dutch expansionism - which had been the dominant European trading power in the region for nearly 200 years - Raffles argued for an increased British presence, which he was promptly given. Under his tutelage, Singapore's forlorn reputation as a fetid, disease-ridden colony was soon forgotten. Migrants, attracted by a tariff-free port, poured in by the thousands and a flourishing colony with a military and naval base was established.

Singapore's inexorable growth continued into the 20th century. However, the outbreak of WWII brutally exposed the fallacy of British might: they suffered the ignominy of defeat when Japan invaded the colony in 1941. The British were, however, welcomed back after Japan's surrender in 1945, but their right to rule was no longer assured.

y the 1950s, burgeoning nationalism had led to the formation of a number of political parties as Singapore moved slowly towards self-government. The People's Action Party, with the Cambridge-educated Lee Kuan Yew as leader, was elected in 1959. Lee became prime minister, a position he was to hold for the next 31 years. In 1963, Singapore formed a union with Malaya (now Malaysia) but by 1965, the nascent federation was in tatters. Singapore became independent soon after and was once again the economic success story of the region. Pragmatic and shrewd, Lee fashioned a government hellbent on modernisation and the suppression of political opposition. Lee Kuan Yew resigned as Prime Minister in 1990 and Goh Chok Tong - a leader more inclined towards consultation and liberalism - took over.

Economic Profile

GDP: US$84 billion
GDP per head: US$21,500
Annual growth: 4%
Inflation: 2%
Major industries: Shipping, banking, tourism, electrical & electronics, oil refining
Major trading partners: US, Malaysia, Japan

Culture

Despite rapid industrialisation, the majority of Singaporeans celebrate the major festivals associated with their respective religions. The variety of religions found in Singapore is a direct reflection of the diversity of races living there. The Chinese are predominantly followers of Buddhism and Shenism (deity worship), though some are Christians. Malays are overwhelmingly Muslims and most of Singapore's Indians are Hindus; there is, however, a sizeable proportion of Muslims and Sikhs amongst the Indian population.

Relief, Chettiar Hindu Temple (12K)

The four official languages of Singapore are Mandarin, Malay, Tamil and English. English is widespread and is the language which unites the various ethnic groups. Children are taught in English at school but also learn their mother tongue to make sure they don't lose contact with their traditions. The only communication problem English-speakers are likely to have in Singapore is with older Singaporeans who did not learn English at school - though trying to understand the unique patois called Singlish - which uses a clipped form of English mixed with Malay and Hokkien words - can be taxing. The use of Malay is mostly restricted to the Malay community. Chinese dialects, such as Hokkien, Teochew, Cantonese, Hainanese and Hakka, are still widely spoken, especially among the older Chinese, but the government's long-standing campaign to promote Mandarin, the main non-dialectal Chinese language, has been very successful and increasing numbers of Chinese now speak Mandarin at home. Tamil is the main Indian language, though Malayalam and Hindi are also spoken.

Off the record

Older Singaporeans are keen on Chinese opera, which is a colourful mixture of dialogue, music, song and dance. It is an ancient form of theatre, reaching the peak of its popularity during the Ming Dynasty from the 14th to 17th centuries. The acting is heavy and stylised, and the music cacophonous to most Western ears. Street performances are held during important festivals such as Chinese New Year. The Lion Dance is a spectacular, acrobatic dance usually performed during Chinese festivals. Other performing arts include Malay and Indian dances; liberalisation has also meant a noticeable increase in alternative theatre, but the mainstay of Singaporean culture must be shopping.

Singapore is the food capital of Asia. Chinese, Indian, Malay, Indonesian and Western foods are all on offer, and some of the most tasty creations are those sold from the atmospheric street stalls. Nonya cooking is a local variation on Chinese and Malay food, mixing Chinese ingredients with local spices such as lemon grass and coconut cream. The popular spicy, coconut-based soup laksa is a classic Nonya dish. Singapore is a great place to discover tropical fruits. Some of the more unusual ones on offer include rambutan, mangosteen, durian, jackfruit, pomelo, starfruit, zirzat, buah duku, chiku and jeruk.

Events

Singapore's polyglot population celebrates a number of festivals and events. Chinese, Hindu and Muslim celebrations follow a lunar calendar so dates of festivities vary from year to year. Chinese New Year, in January or February, is welcomed in with dragon dances, parades and much good cheer. Chinatown is lit up and there are fireworks and night markets. During Ramadan, food stalls are set up in the evening in the Arab St district, near the Sultan mosque. Hari Raya Puasa, which marks the end of Ramadan in January or February, is marked by three days of joyful celebrations. Vesak Day in April or May celebrates Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death. It is marked by various events, including the release of caged birds to symbolise the setting free of captive souls. The Dragon Boat Festival held in May or June commemorates the death of a Chinese saint who drowned himself as a protest against government corruption. It is celebrated with boat races across Marina Bay.

The Festival of the Hungry Ghosts is usually celebrated in September. This is when the souls of the dead are released for feasting and entertainment on earth. Chinese operas are performed for them and food is offered; the ghosts eat the spirit of the food but thoughtfully leave the substance for the mortal celebrants. The festival of Thaipusam is one of the most dramatic Hindu festivals and is now banned in India. Devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing body-piercing masochism - definitely not for the squeamish. In Singapore, devotees march in procession from the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple on Serangoon Rd to the Chettiar Hindu Temple on Tank Rd. The festival is based on the lunar calendar but will be held in October for the next couple of years.

Facts for the Traveller

Visas: Most Western nationals do not require visas; a 14-day permit is issued on arrival, but a one-month permit is usually no problem if asked for. Extensions beyond a month are difficult to obtain.
Health risks: None
Time: GMT/UTC plus eight hours
Electricity: 220-240V, 50 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric with local variations (see the conversion table.)
Tourism: 6.5 million visitors annually

Money & Costs

Currency: Singapore dollar
Relative costs:

Cheap meal: US$2-3
Moderate restaurant meal: US$10-15
Top-end restaurant meal: US$50 and up
Cheap room: US$7-12
Moderate room: US$40-80
Top-end room:US$150 and up

Singapore is much more expensive than other South-East Asian countries which may come as a shock if you are travelling on a shoestring budget. You can still stay here, though, without spending too much money if you can forego the temptation to run amok in the shops or indulge in luxuries you may have craved while travelling in less developed Asian countries. It's possible to stay in Singapore for under US$20 a day, if you stay in hostels and eat cheaply. If you're staying in mid-range hotels and eating at good restaurants, US$70 is a more realistic daily minimum.

All major credit cards are widely accepted, although you're not going to make yourself too popular after a hard bargaining session for a new camera if you then try to pay for it with your Visa card. ATMs are widespread, although it's probably still a good idea to take cash and travellers' cheques for emergencies. You'll find moneychangers in shopping centres all over Singapore.

Tipping is not usual in Singapore: expensive hotels and restaurants may impose a 10% service charge, and a gratuity is not expected in excess of this. Bargaining is falling by the wayside, but tourists should still expect to haggle for luxury items and souvenirs. It is unnecessary to bargain for everyday goods or transport.

When to Go

Go anytime. Climate is not a major consideration, as Singapore gets fairly steady annual rainfall. You may like to co-ordinate your visit with various festivals and events: Thaipusam is one of the most spectacular festivals, occurring around February. If shopping and eating are your major concerns, July is a good month as the Singapore Food Festival and Great Singapore Sale are held.

Attractions

Off the Beaten Track

Changi Village

There are not too many places in Singapore that could be considered virgin wilderness but there are some places that offer an escape from the hubbub of the central district. Changi Village, on the east coast, no longer has traditional kampong houses but it does have a village atmosphere and if the beach is not exactly a tropical paradise it does have the advantage of being almost deserted during the weekdays.

On the way to Changi Village it is worth visiting the infamous Changi Prison. The complex is still used as a prison but next to the main gate is the Changi Prison Museum that holds a replica of the chapel used by interned Allied prisoners during WWII. Memorabilia and notes pinned to the walls of the chapel are a poignant reminder of that particular part of Asian history.

Pulau Ubin

Changi Village is a convenient jump-off point for the northern island of Pulau Ubin. As soon as there is a quota of 12 passengers, a bumboat takes you across to the island where you can find quiet beaches, a kampong atmosphere and popular seafood restaurants. The tranquil rural flavour of Pulau Ubin is as far removed from the cosmopolitan bustle of Singapore central as it is possible to get. The island is small enough to cycle around and this is still the best way to explore its fish farms, holy temples, coconut palms, and deserted beaches.

Southern Islands

Although some of the southern islands are industrial bases there are a few off-the-beaten-track islands where you can find a quiet beach. Sisters' Islands are good for swimming and, with their nearby coral reefs, are a popular diving spot. Other islands worth checking out are Lazarus Island (Pulau Sakijang Pelepah), Pulau Buran Darat, Terumba Retan Laut and Pulau Renggit.

Bukit Timah Nature Reserve

Although little is left of Singapore's wilderness Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, lying to the north of the CBD, is the largest area of remaining primary rainforest. The park is filled with over 800 species of native plants including giant trees, ferns, and native wild flowers. This is also where you'll see long-tailed macaques, lemurs, reticulated pythons, the intriguingly named racquet-tailed drongo and the white-bellied sea eagle.

Singapore's Botanic Gardens has both primary jungle areas and cultivated areas that together contain a plethora of plant species. The gardens also house the herbarium where much work has been done on breeding the orchids for which Singapore is famous.

Activities

The expression "shop 'til you drop" was probably first heard in Singapore where shopping is more than just a casual activity to fill in a few loose hours. Orchard Road offers a mind-boggling choice of shops and stores. Although discount shopping is still a by-word for Singapore it is not the bargain centre it used to be. Singapore is also known as the food capital of Asia, so sampling the local cuisine is an experience in itself rather than simply a way to keep the energy levels up for another assault on the shops.

Walking is still one of the best ways to get around. Singapore is a compact area with many of its star attractions within walking distance of the city district. The inner city ethnic areas of Chinatown, Little India and Arab St. are quickly losing their traditional cultures to drinking bars and venues but they are still fascinating areas to walk through.

Getting There & Away

A swag of airlines fly into Singapore's ultramodern Changi international airport - often voted as one of the best airports in the world. The departure tax on international flights is S$15.

Lots of visitors to Singapore combine their stay with a visit to Malaysia, which is just a km away across the causeway over the Straits of Johore. You can travel between Malaysia and Singapore very easily by bus or taxi. A vehicle and passenger ferry operates between north Changi and Tanjung Belungkor, east of Johor Bahru, and a daily high-speed catamaran links Singapore with Malaysia's Tioman Island. Immaculate air-conditioned buses link Singapore to almost all large Malaysian cities; fares are generally inexpensive. Singapore is the southern terminus of Malaysia's rail system and there are four trains a day to Kuala Lumpur.

There are no direct passenger ferries between Singapore and the main ports of Indonesia, but it is possible to travel between the two countries via the Indonesian islands of the Riau Archipelago, immediately south of Singapore. Modern ferries link Singapore with the islands of Batam and Bintan in the archipelago. Speedboats link Batam with Pekanbaru in Sumatra, and several ships a week link Bintan with Jakarta.